THE UNIQUENESS OF BLACK HAIR
Dr. Susan Taylor’s Prescription for Healthy Hair

Is your hair as healthy, soft and manageable, as you would like? Does it grow to the length that you desire without bald spots or breakage? If you are like most of my patients at either Society Hill Dermatology in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania or at the Skin of Color Center at St. Luke’s-Roosevelt Hospital Center in New York City, then the answer is NO. The first step to improving your hair is to better understand it.

There are many important differences between black and white hair. Although the strands of hair are the same between both black and white women, black hair tends to be more delicate and difficult to style. All hair strands are composed of three layers, the cuticle, or outermost layer, the cortex or pigment-producing layer, and the medulla or innermost layer. Black hair follicles (the areas below the surface of the skin from which the hair originates) are curved as opposed to straight as in white hair. The curvature of the follicle is responsible for the curl of the hair and the tendency to develop ingrown hairs. Also, because the hair is often tightly coiled, it tends to be drier than white hair. The oils produced by the scalp do not migrate down from the curved hair follicle as freely, nor does the oil slide down the curled hair as it does down a straight follicle and straight hair. This dryness of the hair and scalp is the primary reason why Black women do not need to wash their hair as often as white women do.

Black hair has also been found to have a flattened, elliptical shape on cross section and it contains many microscopic (tiny) knots. These knots make the hair more prone to breakage while combing. So it is important to comb the hair gently with a wide-tooth comb, never pulling. Finally, all hair, white and black grows about one half inch per month and we can lose up to 100 hairs per day due to normal shedding. If your hair does not get longer it is not because it is not growing, but because it continually breaks. The breakage is related to all that we do to our hair (see below). If you have bald spots, also termed “alopecia” those may be a sign of a more serious internal problem, so see your dermatologist.

Healthy hair care begins with washing and conditioning the hair every 7 to 10 days. Unfortunately, black women tend to under wash their hair. Washing the hair once a month is not enough! Also, braids and weaves should not stop you from washing regularly.

Eighty percent of Black women chemically relax their hair to make it straight. Both lye and no-lye relaxers exist and may be applied at home or in a salon. These hair relaxing chemicals, sodium, lithium or guanidine hydroxide, break the disulfide bonds of the hair strands to straighten the tightly coiled hair. However, relaxed hair tends to be more fragile and even more prone to dryness and breakage. So it is important to condition relaxed hair weekly and minimize the heat applied to it (avoid daily curling iron use or hot roller use). One of the biggest mistakes women with chemically relaxed hair make is to get touch ups too frequently or combine chemical relaxers with permanent hair dyes. Many women of color typically get touch ups every four to eight weeks, or six to twelve times a year. To minimize damage to the hair, I recommend a touch-up every 10 to 12 weeks in the winter (when hair is more manageable) and every seven to eight weeks in summertime. Therefore, you are reducing the number of times that your hair and scalp are exposed to chemicals to just 4 or 5 times a year. This will result in healthier, less damaged hair.

Hot combs and curling irons are another alternative to straighten Black hair. Hot combs and curling irons, like relaxers have the potential of causing damage to the hair and scalp if used improperly. Both implements reach very high temperatures and the hair oil or pomade used during the process can become very hot. The heat of the hot comb or curling iron can cause breakage of the hair. Also, if the hot oil touches the scalp it can cause burns and hair loss, and you probably will not even feel the burn because many of the heated oil droplets are extremely small. To avoid damage to the hair and scalp, the hot comb and curling iron should not be too hot (we want to avoid the sizzle). If the stylist uses an oven to heat the comb or curling iron ask her to minimize the amount of time the comb or iron is left in the oven and allow them to cool before applying it to your hair. Most electric combs come with various heat settings, so turn down the heat!

Braids and cornrows have the potential to either help your hairs grow or to damage them further. Avoids two common mistakes—braiding the hair too tightly and braiding with heavy extensions. Either practice will put stress on your roots and may lead to permanent hair loss. How do you know if the braids are too tight? If you cannot move your forehead or temples or raise your eyebrows after the braids are put in, they are too tight. If you have a headache afterwards, they are too tight. Braids that are too tight will lead to a problem called “traction alopecia” It is responsible for the receding hairlines seen on many Black women who wear braided or cornrow styles for years. Finally, washing regularly is important for a healthy scalp.

Hair weaves are very popular today. Avoid two common mistakes with this process--- bonding or gluing the hair to the scalp and weaves that are too long and heavy. Invariably with bonding, you will lose some hair when it is removed. You also exposed the scalp to possible allergic reactions. Finally, with very long and heavy weaves, the pulling on your roots can lead to traction alopecia.

Natural hairstyles are gaining popularity and one of the most popular is locks. Contrary to what you might think, locks are not maintenance-free. If you use twists to initiate your locks, you will need to re-twist hair frequently—but gently. You will also need to apply a moisturizer to your hair and scalp. Don’t forget to wash regularly and dry the locks. Finally, do not allow them to get too long and weighty (this could lead to traction alopecia).

Finally, if your hair has been severely damaged or your are experiencing bald spots, see your dermatologist. Often help is just a visit away.